Ignition Problem

[penneyben]

Hey,

Finally had the money to start driving again! But sadly its not to be!

Been trying to sort out a problem with it not starting today. But had nothing but problems. Before i went away travelling it started first time everytime, there where no signs of any problems at all. When i got back i managed to start it up first time as well, and whilst i was away my brother was learning to drive in it. All this time it has shown no signs of any ignition problem.

However about 2 weeks ago it just wouldn't start! The starter motor turns and it seems as if fuel is being pumped in ok. I took out one of the spark plugs grounded it properly but there was no spark. So i started to replace all the components working back from the spark plugs. So far i have replaced the Spark Plugs, Rotor arm, distributor cap and the coil! Didn't replace the leads as they where new just before i went awaw. Tested them by swapping over with some new spare ones i had but it didn't make any difference. I have also coated all the elctrical components with a liberal application of wd40. But still no difference.

Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone have any suggustions as to what to replace next? The Mini in question is a 1993 Cooper Spi. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Ben

[Tommy Cooper]

whats happening at the points?

[penneyben]

whats happening at the points?

As far as i am aware there are no points, the ECU replaces them.

At least i hope thats the case, i couldn't see any when i was fitting the new rotor arm!

[t boy]

have you got oil in your dash pot

[Iceman]

Ecu means its injection so no cabuerettor.
So after changing everything have you any spark at the plugs if you have well it should at least try to start. Make sure you have a good 12 volts at the coil then make sure that the module on the side of the distributor has a good earth to the distributor and no wires have come of. Then check cap for cracking and make sure the springed point in the middle of the cap is there and not broke. Make sure the rotor arm is also earth well to the middle of the distributor. This should at least get you somewhere.
FAZ

[Tommy Cooper]

ditto that Faz - check the voltages from the coil and then check the connections and earth

[penneyben]

Thanks all! Gonna have another crack at this tommorrow. got Some new batteries for the multimeter tonight and have a battery on charge for the Car! Should hopefully get somewhere tommorrow.

Thanks again.

Ben

[penneyben]

right ok,

just had the chance to go outside and check everything over. Got a multimeter and checked the coil by placing one of the terminals on the coils positive terminal and other on the engine block to earth it. Turned the key and it registered between 0.10 and 0.12 volts. Checked all the connections and they seem fine, the battery is fully charged and everything else electrical seems to be working. Really confused as to whats wrong with it! Any ideas???

Many thanks,

Ben

[millermilla]

Do you have a spark at the coil?

Test for spark at the coil the same way you check for spark at the plugs: Remove the coil lead from the distributor cap and hold the end (metal electrode part) about 1cm from an earth i.e a cylinder head stud and get someone to crank the engine. You should have a big spark at the end of the lead to the cylinder head stud......... Beware though, wear rubber gloves, do not touch any metal on the car with your other hand and preferably hold the rubber part of the coil lead with insulated pliers otherwise you are likely to get a nasty shock! Well if you do at least you will know the coil is working!!!!!


If you get no spark at the coil lead: With the ignition on you should get 9-12V at the +ive side of the coil and the negative side of the coil should be earthed ( you can check this by connecting your multimeter to the main +ive connection on the starter motor and the -ive terminal of the coil and you should still read 9-12V.

If all the above is OK: Connect an LED test light on any +ive and the negative side of the coil. Crank the engine over and the LED light should flash. If you dont have an LED test light just connect the multimeter in the same way and you should see 9-12V before cranking then fluctuating 4-6V when cranking the engine over. If your clever you could check dwell or duty cycle at the coil.


If your completely stuck and make good coffee im sure I could be persueded to drop in for the price of a few cans of Strongbow :)